How to Use Retinoids the Right Way

While buzzy ingredients for skincare come and go, there’s been one that’s been on the market for some time now that isn’t going away: retinoids. Retinoids are class of synthetic derivatives of vitamin A (yep, the stuff that’s found in your eggs and sweet red peppers). When applied topically to the skin, they penetrate deep into the layers of the skin’s epidermis and have all kinds of benefits for the skin.

But stopping wrinkles isn’t retinoids’s only use case: it’s also incredibly efficient at resurfacing uneven texture, lightening hyperpigmentation and scarring, treating acne, reducing oil production, and even reversing sun damage. But don’t take my word for it alone.

“Topical retinoids increase skin cell turnover, meaning they help get rid of old skin cells. This may sound familiar to anyone who exfoliates — topical retinoids are a form of chemical exfoliation!” says Dr. Kaveri Karhade, MD, FAAD, who is a dermatologist at the Berman Skin Institute in San Francisco. “In addition, they decrease the breakdown of collagen which helps with wrinkles. Retinoids also unclog pores and reduce acne outbreaks [as] dead skin cells can no longer clog pores.”

You might be saying, “Sounds fantastic. When can I start?” Not so fast, actually. According to Dr. Karhade, there are some things you should know about using this product before you dive in.

It’s not for everyone

If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, topical retinoids are probably not right for you. “Pregnant and breast feeding [women should] stay away due to known risks from ORAL retinoids; though use of topical retinoid use during pregnancy and breast feeding has not been shown to result in fetal defects, there is insufficient data to support its safety and due to the known risks from oral retinoids,” Dr. Karhade says. “It is best to hold off until after pregnancy [and] lactation.”

Pick the right one for you skin needs

There are a number of retinoids out there, and some are over-the-counter, while others are prescription only. “There are a number of different retinoids, all of which are actually derivatives of vitamin A!” Dr. Karhade tells me.

The strongest stuff must be given by a derm. “Oral retinoids are prescription only. Accutane (Isotretinoin) is one example,” Dr. Karhade says. Some topicals also require a trip to the doctor’s office, such as Tretinoin, or better known by it’s brand name Retin-A.

“Some topical retinoids are available over the counter, while stronger versions are prescription only,” says Dr. Karhade. “Specifically, retinols, [ones] ending with -ol, are available over the counter and are generally weaker than topical retinoids. There is one topical retinoid available over the counter and is FDA approved for the treatment of acne — that is Differin ($11), or Adapalene.”

In case you can’t make a trip to see your dermatologist, Dr. Karhade suggests Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair ($24), Skinceuticals 1.0 Retinol Face Cream ($90), and RoC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Anti-Aging Retinol Night Cream ($15).

Make sure you’re applying the RIGHT way

Rule number one of retinoids: Only apply it at nighttime. The reason is because “sun exposure with daytime use can inactivate the retinoid,” says Dr. Karhade.

If you’re not careful, retinoids can cause peeling, purging (when your skin breaks out as gunk deep in the skin make their way to the top), irritation, and redness. Which is why Dr. Karhade has very specific instructions on how to apply the stuff.

”The primary side effect of any retinoids is irritation and dryness of the skin. This can be prevented [or] minimized by starting the retinoid the correct way,” she tells me. “I like to recommend starting it every other night instead of every night and for those with sensitive skin, perhaps even only two times per week.” From there, you can work your way up. If you have a very sensitive skin condition like rosacea, don’t rule yourself out. Dr. Karhade says, “For rosacea, treat as sensitive skin, so less frequent application of retinoids, and increase as tolerated.”

“Some parts of the face are more prone to dryness [such as] under the eyes [and] around the nose. For those parts, the retinoid can be applied less frequently,” she advises.

The right way to do it is by applying a pea-sized amount (this will be enough for your whole face), “followed by any topical moisturizer.” Dr. Karhade’s favorites include La Roche-Posay Toleriane Double Repair Face Moisturizer ($20), Neutrogena Hydro Boost Hyaluronic Acid Gel-Cream ($17), and CeraVe Moisturizing Cream ($14). “An example regimen is a pea-sized amount of topical retinoid to the entire face five times per week followed by a moisturizer, with the exception of delicate areas like under the eyes/around nose, [for] which aim to apply the topical retinoids two to three times per week,” she suggests.

For me, I also like to wait a good 20 to 30 minutes after washing my face, toning, and applying serums before finally applying Tretinoin. To be fair, this is kind of an archaic rule, since damp skin increases absorption, which could be irritating with old school retinoids. Newer retinoids currently on the market are less irritating on the skin than before, so this rule is more or less dwindled, but you can always try this if you have highly sensitized skin.

Watch what else is going on your skin

Since retinoids are chemically exfoliating your skin, you want to be extra careful with your new skin. “I recommend using only gentle cleansers for the face,” Dr. Karhade says.” She recommends CeraVe Foaming Facial Cleanser ($13) or Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser ($11).

“Avoid harsh cleansers such as those containing Benzoyl Peroxide or Salicylic Acid as those ingredients can dry out the skin,” she says. “[Also] avoid physical exfoliation with skin brushes, loofahs, or facial scrubs as retinoids already exfoliate the skin.”

As for your other skin treatments, proceed with caution. “AHAs and BHAs also lightly exfoliate the skin so I would avoid use of those at the same time as a topical retinoid,” says Dr. Karhade. “What one can do is alternate usage. For example, use a topical retinoid every other night and Skinceuticals Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight ($100) every other night.”

Be patient

This miracle product doesn’t work overnight (well, it does work nights, but you know what I mean). It can take a one to two months before you see the effects. And sometimes, your skin could actually get worse before it gets better. “Initial use of topical retinoids in someone with acne can lead to mild worsening of the acne in the first two to three weeks before it begins to get better,” says Dr. Karhade. But get better it will, as long as you stick to the regimen.

This interview has been edited for clarity.

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(Featured photo: Septian Simon/Unsplash)

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